The domestic rabbit...
... is a direct descendant of the wild European rabbit (not our cottontail). Oryctolagus cuniculus which translates into “hare-like digger of underground passages.”
Physically, the rabbit has changed substantially through the process of domestication.
Behaviorally, the rabbit has not changed so radically from that of its wild forbearers. Changing the behavior has not been the principal aim (unlike dogs).
The rabbit’s biology and behavior is poorly understood by the majority of owners and this has lead to numerous problems and a steady flow of rabbits arriving at the shelter.
Rabbits are prey animals, which substantially affects the way they interact with their environment. The fact that the rabbit is a prey species has far-reaching implications in explaining why rabbits behave as they do and how we should treat them.
Wild rabbits weigh ~3.5 pounds and are considered a medium-sized prey animal. They provide a more satisfying meal than smaller prey and are still small enough to be caught by an animal working on its own.
Wild rabbits are high on the menu of over 20 different species of predators. They have enemies everywhere. They are attacked from above by buzzards, owls, and golden eagles. They are chased and caught by foxes. Babies are dug from their nest burrows by badgers. Even adult rabbits living underground are not safe, family groups of stoats and weasels hunt rabbits in an organized fashion.
It is important to understand that communication of prey species is more restricted and subtle than that of predator species. Rabbits will not show extravagant signs of greeting, pain, or fear. In the wild these displays can prove fatal, they are interpreted as vulnerabilities and draw the attention of predators.
Handling Rabbits
Approaching a Rabbit
The safest initial approach with rabbits is to open the door and wait for the rabbit to quiet itself in its cage. Once quiet begin by lightly stroking the top of the rabbit’s head. Most rabbits do not like having the tips of their noses, chins, stomachs, or feet touched.
Do not offer your hand for a bunny to sniff the way you would for a dog. Rabbits eyes are placed high and to the sides of the skull, allowing the rabbit to see nearly 360 degrees, as well as far above her head. As a result of this remarkable field of vision, there is a small blind spot directly in front of his face, but forward-placed nostrils and large, spooning ears compensate for that minor loss of predator-detecting space. Many rabbits seem to find this gesture of hand sniffing offensive and may attack. Since rabbits don’t vocalize like dogs and cats, their attack is a lightening fast lunge with a snort (grunt), sometimes accompanied by flailing paws.
Lifting
Rabbits are prey animals. They do not like to be picked up and carried around. An improperly handled rabbit that kicks out or struggles is at risk of fracturing its long bones or spine. The most common fracture due to improper handling is the 7th lumbar vertebrae (L7), which causes permanent paralysis.
Rabbits should never be lifted by the ears or by the scruff of their neck. When lifting rabbits, provide support for the upper body with one hand while providing support for the hind legs with the other hand. Firmly and securely hold the rabbit against your chest using both hands and forearm. If the rabbit begins to struggle, drop down into a crouch and let the struggling rabbit jump to the floor.
Feeding Rabbits
A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay, and water.
On a daily basis, discard uneaten pellets, hay in litterbox, and water. Replace with fresh pellets, hay, and water.
Position food dishes near the door of the cage so they can be replenished with a minimum amount of trespassing. Very slowly reach your hand into the cage to get food dishes---rabbits interpret quick hand movements as a threat to survival.
Pellets should be fresh, contain a moderate amount of protein (not greater than 16%) and relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber).
Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health. Hay provides roughage, which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Eating hay also can prevent future tooth problems, rabbit teeth grow 3-4 millimeters per week.
How does a rabbit’s diet change with age?
Adolescents: 8 weeks to 7 months--unlimited pellets, unlimited alfalfa hay Young adults: 7 months to 1 year—decrease alfalfa, increase grass and oat hays; decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight Mature adults: 1 to 5 years—unlimited grass hay, oat hay, 1/3 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism) Senior rabbits: 6 years and Over--If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet. Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits.
Litter Boxes/Training
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places to deposit their urine and most of their pills (usually corners). Litter training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Rabbits naturally eliminate while they eat. Place a 2” layer of hay on top of the litter in the litterbox to ensure that the rabbit will eliminate in the box. Replenish hay every day. Many rabbits will lounge in their litterboxes.
Choose the proper litterbox: Rabbits often back up so far in the litterbox that the urine goes over the edge. Provide a medium-sized plastic cat litter pan with high sides.
Discard litter and wash the litterbox with soap and water at the minimum, every two days. Refill box as described below:
Place a ½” layer of newspaper on the bottom of the litterbox. Cover newspaper with a 2-3” layer of rabbit-safe litter. If rabbit-safe litter is not available, place a 1” layer of newspaper in the bottom of the litterbox.
Rabbit-Safe Litters:
Not Safe for Rabbits: Clay Cat Litter Pine Shavings Cedar Shavings
Litterboxes need to be checked every day. Droppings are a good indicator of rabbit health.
Pills are normal, round, hard dark brown droppings. Cecotropes are clusters of softer, membrane-covered droppings that are eaten by rabbits for nutrients.
If a rabbit does not eat or defecate in a 12 hour period, contact a veterinarian. This indicates that the gastrointestinal tract has stopped moving food, which is life-threatening if left untreated.
If diarrhea, an unformed watery mass, is found in the litterbox, see your veterinarian immediately. If left untreated, diarrhea is often fatal within 24 hours.
Toys
Toys are important for rabbits because they provide mental and physical stimulation. Some excellent suggestions are as follows: Cardboard boxes for crawling inside, scratching, and chewing. Rabbits like them much more when there are at least two entry points into the boxes. Cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper. Rabbits especially like these when they are stuffed with hay. Untreated wicker baskets or boxes full of shredded paper, junk mail, magazines, straw, or other organic materials for digging. Batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed. Hard plastic (not teething) baby toys like rattles and keys, things that can be tossed. Plastic Rainbow slinkies.Lids to detergent bottles or fabric softener bottles.
Special thanks to the
House Rabbit Society for the above information. If you have a rabbit, or are thinking of getting one, visit their website for in-depth information and knowledge concerning the domestic rabbit, including the numerous benefits of spaying or neutering your pet rabbit. Submitted by: If you have rabbit related questions you would like answered,
get them answered at June's Booth |
